Getting to the other end of the starter cable not so easy. Still reading 12.17V in engine bay, engine ground tests good (and strap is new). Disconnected IBS blue connector, no change. Inspected and re-cleaned the post side of the starter cable, no change. I read in other forums that inspecting the CAS module can reveal burned boards - is this so and does the module remove and crack open easily? 12V+ at jump post, the car has a new engine ground strap less than 6 months old, and engine grounding checks out good. I have checked battery, it has over 12V and I kept a good charger on it to be sure. Since the starter was no spring chicken I replaced it with a new Bosch unit, and also swapped the relay behind the glove box purported to fix no-start. Keys work perfectly clicking in and out of slot. There are several small whirring type noises but no big click I would associate with a stuck solenoid nor do the lights dim slightly as I would expect for that condition. When the start button is pushed all appears normal - all accessories work, windows, lights on dash etc.
I roll-started the car and it ran flawlessly home, where it still did nothing on button push. I went over with the rescue wagon but other key, jumps, making a second ground with a cable, etc got nothing. Last week my son started it normally and drove it about 10 miles, and when he got back in to start, nothing. The car has always run flawlessly with 167,000mi and is totally unmolested (stock). In all the ownership of the cars below I have thrown in the towel exactly twice 30 years apart - e90 water pump 500 miles from home, and 2002 alternator similarly far from home (almost made it but it started raining). I thought I would run it by the forums for any further checks I could make before either educating myself on running software or throwing in the towel and bringing it in. Well I've just about run out of "old school" checks on my no crank/no start fault.
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